I lived in Southern California for a long time. For years, the "dirty little secret" about Hollywood was that only tourists went there, and most of them regretted it! Although located close to some lovely areas of Los Angeles, Hollywood itself was a real dump, populated all-too-frequently by hustlers, pickpockets, drug addicts, con artists and panhandlers. To view the "major attractions" at the time - the Hollywood Walk of Fame and Grauman's Chinese Theatre - you had to walk a gantlet of tacky souvenir stands, adult book stores and X-rated movie theaters.

Fortunately Hollywood is now significantly more pleasant than it used to be, and Disney has played a major role in the improvements. The changes started in the mid-1990s when the city of Los Angeles decided to place a stop on the new Metro Red Line subway right in the heart of Hollywood. Many local residents and city leaders were worried that making it easier to arrive in Hollywood by public transportation would only encourage more tourists to come and be disappointed. From that point on, improvement has been happening slowly but surely along the central section of Hollywood Boulevard.

The good news about Hollywood is, everything you will want to see is located within about three city blocks, with the center being Hollywood Blvd. and Highland Ave. (The famous intersection of Hollywood and Vine has nothing to offer.) If you want to do the "grand tour," consider the Hollywood CityPass, which provides admission to many of the major attractions at a discounted price.

The bad news is, there's still a seedy side to Hollywood, even in the central tourist area. Be prepared for crowds. Watch for pickpockets. Also, be aware that there are many costumed individuals, particularly in the plaza in front of Grauman's Chinese Theatre, who will try to get you to have your picture taken with them, and then charge you money. These people are not official, licensed or authorized to do this, so proceed with caution.

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Getting to Hollywood and Getting Around

Assuming you want to visit Hollywood in conjunction with a Disneyland vacation, there really are only two viable ways to get to there: driving and taking public transportation. Disney does not offer any kind of bus or shuttle service between the two.

Renting a car is a good bet. Los Angeles is a town dominated by the automobile, so traveling by car is the quintessential way to experience it. Disneyland and central Hollywood are about 34 miles apart. Driving time to Hollywood is about 45 minutes from Disneyland, if traffic is light. (In heavy traffic, it can take up to 2 hours. Avoid rush hours: 6:00 to 9:00 am and 3:00 to 7:00 pm.) Once you're in Hollywood, park at Hollywood & Highland Center.

If you prefer to try public transportation, an easy option is:

• Get a cab to the Anaheim train station, located about 2.5 miles from Disneyland. This should cost around $10.

• From there you can take either an Amtrak train (fare about $9 one way) or a Metrolink commuter train (fare about $6.75 one way) to Los Angeles Union Station. This portion of the trip takes about 45-50 minutes.

• At Union Station, transfer to the Metro Red Line toward North Hollywood and exit at Hollywood & Highland station. The Metro fare is $1.25 and this portion of the trip takes 21 minutes.

For more information about train services from the Disneyland area, click here.

MouseSavers.com reader Sean R offers these additional suggestions for using public transportation between Disneyland and Hollywood:

• Another option is to take the OCTA 43 bus northbound on Harbor Blvd to the Fullerton [train] station. Fullerton offers extra train service as it is served by both the Metrolink Orange and 91 lines, and has lower fares than Anaheim. The bus fare is $1.25 one-way.

• Yet another option is to catch the Metro 460 bus at Disneyland and ride it to 7th and Flower in downtown Los Angeles and then take the Metro Red Line from the 7th Street Metro Center station (which has an entrance at 7th and Flower) to the Hollywood and Highland station. Be aware that when taking the Red Line, there are two westbound destinations: North Hollywood and Wilshire/Western. Be sure to board the North Hollywood bound train. When returning to Disneyland, board the Metro 460 at 7th and Figueroa. With a day pass ($5) and the zone charges ($1.15 ea/way), it works out to a total of $7.30. The trip on the Metro 460 to downtown LA is about 1 hour, 25 minutes to 1 hour, 40 minutes (depending upon traffic). The Red Line trip from 7th Street Metro Center station to Hollywood and Highland is 11 minutes.

• No matter which option you choose, when returning, be sure to get to the Hollywood and Highland station no later than 9:40 PM or else you may miss the last connecting bus (which is scheduled to leave its first stop from downtown at 10:11 PM) or train (which is scheduled to leave Union Station at 10:10 PM).

Taking taxis in Los Angeles is a bad idea. Distances are large and fares are high. As an experiment, I tried taking a cab from the Beverly Hilton to Disney's El Capitan Theatre in Hollywood, a distance of less than 6 miles. The one-way cab fare, including a modest tip, was $29.

Hollywood Walk of Fame

The Hollywood Walk of Fame, created in 1960, consists of the famous bronze and terrazzo "stars" imbedded in the sidewalks along Hollywood Blvd. between Gower St. and La Brea Ave., and along Vine St. from Sunset Blvd. to Yucca St.

If you want to visit your favorite celebrity's "star," visit the Hollywood Chamber of Commerce web site to learn its location.

Bear in mind that in the central tourist area of Hollywood (around Hollywood Blvd. and Highland Ave.), many of the "stars" are difficult to see (much less photograph) due to the high volume of pedestrian traffic.

Also, be aware that many major celebrities do not have a "star."

Hollywood & Highland Center

Hollywood & Highland Center, opened in 2001, is now the focus of Hollywood's revitalization. You'll definitely want to check out the center's over-the-top Babylon Court, inspired by D.W. Griffith's 1916 silent film Intolerance. The two gigantic elephants and huge columns are quite amazing.

Hollywood & Highland is the home of many restaurants, a couple of nightclubs, a trendy bowling alley/restaurant/lounge called Lucky Strike Lanes, a multiplex movie theater (Mann's Chinese 6) and the Hollywood Renaissance Hotel.

For a reasonably-priced meal, Hollywood & Highland has quite a few options such as Quizno's, Great Steak & Potato Co, California Pizza Kitchen and Johnny Rocket's. There are also some high-end eateries, including two operated by Wolfgang Puck: Vert and Loggia at the Highlands.

Hollywood & Highland is located on the north side of Hollywood Blvd., half a block west of Highland Ave.

There is a large parking structure in Hollywood & Highland Center and this is the best place to park for your explorations of Hollywood. Entrances are on Highland Ave. and Orange Ave. Parking is $2 for 4 hours (with validation) and $1 for each 20 minutes thereafter. There is a $10 per day maximum charge.

Here are some discount sources for businesses in the Hollywood & Highland complex:

• If you plan to shop or eat at Hollywood & Highland, be sure to get an Elephant Card in advance, since that will give you lots of discounts.

• The 2008 Los Angeles Entertainment Book contains coupons for up to 50% off at Lucky Strike Lanes. Expires 11/1/08.

• If you purchase the 2008 Orange County Entertainment Book (perfect if you are going to Disneyland) you can print a coupon from the Entertainment web site for 20% off (up to $25 savings) at Lucky Strike Lanes. Expires 12/31/08.

• All 2008 Entertainment Books contain numerous coupons for Quizno's.

Kodak Theatre

Kodak Theatre, new home to the Academy Awards, was opened in 2001. Most concerts, shows and other events held at Kodak Theatre are open to the general public, so if you're going to Hollywood, check to see what's playing during your visit.

Even if you don't choose to attend a live show, there are some aspects of the theater anyone can enjoy. Walk through the impressive multi-story portal from Hollywood Blvd. to approach the theater, which is set back from the street. Once inside the portal, you can wander along an Awards Walk of glass plaques featuring winners of the Best Picture Oscar.

Kodak Theatre is located at 6801 Hollywood Boulevard (north side, at Hollywood & Highland Center). For information call (323) 308-6300.

30-minute guided tours of Kodak Theatre are offered seven days a week, every thirty minutes from 10:30 am to 4:00 pm (June 1 to August 31) and 10:30 am to 2:30 pm (rest of the year), except when there are schedule conflicts due to rehearsals or productions. Guided Tour tickets cost $15 for adults, $10 for seniors (65+) and children (ages 3-17).

• The Hollywood & Highland Elephant Card (request in advance) gives you 2-for-1 admission to the Guided Tour. The card can be used for up to 4 total admissions.

• You can get a coupon for $3 off adult admission to the Guided Tour by clicking here.

• Admission to the Kodak Theatre Guided Tour is usually included in the Hollywood CityPass, except when the theater is closed for productions.

Disney's El Capitan Theatre

© Disney Enterprises, Inc. All rights reserved.

The fabulous El Capitan Theatre began life in 1926 as a live theater, hosting major plays of the day. In 1942 it was converted to a movie theater. Beginning in 1989, Disney undertook a phenomenal, "museum quality" restoration of the 1,040-seat theater and added a Dolby sound system. The theater reopened under Disney's ownership in 1991.

The El Capitan usually hosts Disney's movie premieres. If you want to watch the latest Disney movie in style, this is the place! You'll get a kick out of the elaborately costumed ushers.

Be sure to arrive early so that you can enjoy the pre-show, which includes live organ music performed on a giant 1920s Wurlitzer. Some movies are preceded by a full-on live stage show with characters. During the run of certain movies, special exhibits about the making of the film, sets and props, etc., are displayed in the basement of the theater.

The El Capitan is located at 6838 Hollywood Blvd. (south side of Hollywood Blvd, west of Highland Ave., across the street from Grauman's Chinese Theatre).

There are two movie ticket options at the El Capitan: general admission and VIP. Tickets usually sell out, so buy in advance. You can order online or by calling (800) DISNEY6. There may be a processing fee for ordering online.

• General admission tickets vary in price depending on the movie showing, but average $9-$14 for adults, $8-$11 for seniors and children. General admission tickets provide open seating only (no reserved seats).

• VIP tickets also vary in price depending on the movie showing -- typically $20-$23 per person (no discounts for kids or seniors). VIP tickets entitle you to reserved seats in the center section of the theater and include popcorn and a drink. If you have VIP tickets, you do not have to wait in the long general admission line to get into the theater. In my opinion, the VIP tickets are worth the extra money.

Disney's Soda Fountain and Studio Store

© Disney Enterprises, Inc. All rights reserved.

Located next door to El Capitan Theatre, Disney's Soda Fountain and Studio Store makes a nice addition to any outing to Hollywood. It offers excellent ice cream that is trucked in from Bakersfield, where it is made by a famous old-fashioned soda fountain called Dewar's. The "soda jerks" at Disney's fountain are even trained by Dewar's soda jerks!

The atmosphere is fun and the menu is simple - ice cream cones, sundaes, shakes, malts, freezes, phosphates and old-time flavored sodas, plus a few basic food items like grilled cheese, hot dogs and peanut butter & jelly sandwiches. Prices are pretty reasonable considering the location and surroundings: you can get a nice big sundae for under $7.

Timing is everything here. We were fortunate enough to arrive midway through a movie showing at the El Capitan, and had no problems being seated immediately. As soon as the movie let out, however, the line to get into the Soda Fountain was halfway down the block. So if you just want ice cream, be sure to check the movie times and plan your visit accordingly.

MouseSavers.com reader Jennie M writes, "...we are regulars at the El Capitan/Disney Soda Fountain. Something most people don't realize is that when you go to the movies at the El Capitan, you can bring in ANYTHING you get from the Soda Fountain to enjoy during the movie. Plus they make different themed specials to go with the movies they show. For The Chronicles of Narnia they had a special sundae - Rocky Road ice cream, hot marshmallow topping, snow caps, and whipped cream - served in a special Narnia bowl that you got to keep. For Lady and the Tramp there was a spaghetti and meatball dinner! That was fun!"

The adjacent Studio Store itself isn't anything too exciting - just the usual Disney plush toys, videos and souvenirs at inflated prices.

Disney's Soda Fountain and Studio Store is located at 6834 Hollywood Blvd. (southwest corner of Hollywood Blvd. and Highland Ave., next to Disney's El Capitan Theatre).

Grauman's Chinese Theatre

One of the most opulent of the city's old movie palaces, Grauman's Chinese Theatre originally opened in 1927. Probably the most famous landmark in Hollywood, it still has the power to amaze. The forecourt in front of the theater is well-known for its handprints and footprints of movie stars, while the 90-foot tall theater itself is an wacky, "only in LA" architectural marvel. It is operated by Mann Theatres.

Grauman's Chinese Theatre is located at 6925 Hollywood Blvd. (north side, just west of Highland, across from Disney's El Capitan Theatre). Call (323) 464-8111 for showtimes.

Backstage tours of Grauman's Chinese Theatre are offered 7 days a week. Call (323) 463-9576 for tour times and prices.

If you just want to see the interior, you can attend a movie at regular movie theater prices. However, be careful to pick whatever movie is playing in the actual Grauman's Chinese Theatre itself. It has only one screen. There is an adjacent theater called the Mann Chinese 6, which is a new multiplex -- nothing special to see there.

Egyptian Theatre

One of the most amazing movie palaces in Los Angeles, the Egyptian Theatre (built in 1922) has been nicely renovated to its old glory. It is operated by a non-profit organization, the American Cinematheque, which shows art films, documentaries and classics on its giant screen.

The Egyptian Theatre is located at 6712 Hollywood Blvd. (south side of Hollywood Blvd. about a block and a half east of Grauman's Chinese Theatre). Recorded program information is available by calling (323) 466-3456.

Regular show admission is $9 for adults and $7 for students, seniors and children under 12.

On weekends at the Egyptian Theatre there are two daily afternoon matinees of Forever Hollywood, an excellent 55-minute film on the history of movie-making. Tickets to Forever Hollywood are $7 for adults and $5 for students, seniors and children under 12.

Private group tours of the Egyptian Theatre can be scheduled by calling (323) 461-2020. Groups must be 10 or more people, but sometimes individuals can join a scheduled group tour, so if you don't have 10 people, call and ask if there is a tour coming up. Tour prices are $7 for adults, $5 for students, seniors and children under 12.

Musso & Frank Grill

For a true "Old Hollywood" dining experience, the only choice is Musso & Frank Grill, which opened in 1919 and moved to its current location in 1937. Musso & Frank is an expensive chop house with a décor seemingly unchanged since its original opening: red leather booths and lots of dark wood. It's so "old school" it doesn't even have a web site.

Tourists come here, but so do locals who have been eating here for 60 years or more, and occasionally movie stars. The waiters are a trip. Some of them seem to have been working here since the place opened, and while they are super-professional, they tend to be cranky.

Everything, including side dishes, is sold a la carte at Musso & Frank. Order a martini, shrimp cocktail, steak and potatoes - this place does not deal in "California cuisine." They've been serving the same stuff since 1919 and if it was good enough for Orson Welles, F. Scott Fitzgerald, William Faulkner, Charlie Chaplin and Douglas Fairbanks, it's darn well good enough for you.

Expect to pay $60-$100 for dinner for two. Paid parking is behind the restaurant, and you enter through the back.

Musso & Frank is located at 6667 Hollywood Blvd. (northwest corner of Hollywood & Cherokee, about 3 blocks east of Highland Ave.). Call (323) 467-7788 for reservations.

The Hollywood Museum

Located in the renovated Max Factor Building (a masterpiece of Art Deco architecture), The Hollywood Museum features four floors of Hollywood exhibits, including displays on Bob Hope, Lucille Ball, Marilyn Monroe and Mae West, as well as costumes and props from a few films including Moulin Rouge and Silence of the Lambs.

Naturally there is a significant focus on makeup impresario Max Factor and the way he invented the "look" of many famous stars of yesteryear: there's a whole floor devoted to his color theories. A photo gallery gives you a chance to enjoy "Old Hollywood," with pictures of long-lost movie-star hangouts like The Brown Derby and the Trocadero Ballroom. Special exhibitions are sometimes offered, such as an exhibit on "Egypt in Hollywood."

No photography is allowed in the museum and they will hold your camera at the entrance.

The Hollywood Museum is located at 1660 N. Highland Ave. (just south of Hollywood Blvd.). For information call (323) 464-7776.

Hours are Thursday through Sunday from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm.

Admission is $15 for adults, $12 for seniors and children under 12.

• Admission to The Hollywood Museum is included in the Hollywood CityPass.

Tours

I have not taken any of the tours mentioned below, so I can't recommend one over another.

• The 2008 Los Angeles Entertainment Book contains the following coupons for tours of Hollywood:
  
  
  • Hollywood Fantasy Tour (2 for 1) Red Line (20% off)
  • Starline (20% off)

Coupons expire 11/1/08.

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